Book Support
As with any book there are always things that get omitted, or time and space made for some omissions. So I am offering a couple of options to address these.
- If you do not find the answer to your question in the book you can check the FAQ section to see if this has already been addressed
- You can submit a question using the Book Question Form below. When I receive this I will address it and then post both the question and the answer in the FAQ section.
Hopefully these two options will address anything I omitted.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Book Questions-Format |
| Why can't I save the design in a lower level version? | If you have your selected the multi-needle option in the Design Settings Dialog box, then you can only save as a Version 9 file. If you want to save it in a lower version you need to be set up for single needle machine. Then the lower version formats will be available. However, you will only be able to save the stitch data. There will no longer be a notion of text, design objects etc. I recommend you save it as both a version 9 file (so that you can edit later if needed) as well as the lower level version. I generally name these lower level format files with a prefix indicating what format it is in, such as V7 filename.pes. This way I know it is a lower version.
Generally you want a lower version because you want to give the design to someone who does not have latest version. For example if you are creating design sets to sell you might want to save in an earlier version so that anyone can bring it into their software. However, make sure you are not giving away someone else's design! (Remember the copyright police are out there!)
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Book Questions -Splitting |
| I want to split a design and insert something between the splits and save as one design. (I. e. Logo initials split with spell out between the split letters). Hope you know what I mean. . | |
Determine what kind of critter the Logo is. If you select it, if it says anything other than stitches above the Attribute tab you will need to convert it to stitches first. (The split tool can only work with Stitches objects.) Once the logo is selected on the Attributes Ribbon, the option Convert to Stitches should be available. Apply that. Then Select the logo again and on the Attributes ribbon you should see the Split tool. Select that tool and then split by creating an envelope around one part of the logo (click left to create an edit point and right click to release, then double click to end. When you double click that part of the logo is selected. You can now move it so that the parts are separated. Add in the new text and align as needed. Save as the new design and you are done!
| | How can I add in reinforcement or locking stitches after I have split a design | Great question! Often when we split a design we lose the locking stitches.
To put the locking stitches in you need to add 3-5 stitches that are very close together at the start and finish poit of the object.
To do this
- Determine where this object starts and finishes.
- To do this I add a small shape before and after the object that needs the locking stitches. I change the color and then adjust the sewing order of these shapes. This way I can see where the jumpstitches go to and from the split object!
- Create the locking stitches
- Use Home=>Open Straight Line drawing tool and do 4 clicks. I do not try to place these in the correct spot. Do not worry anout getting the stitches close together. Double click to end.
- Use Select=>Select Point mode to move the individual edit points closer together!
- Go back to regular Selection mode and select it. Then move it to the start locking stitch position.
- Change the sewing order so that it is sewn before the split object. Change the color if needed to the object color.
- Copy this locking stitches and place at the finish of the split object. Adjust the sewing order if necessary.
- Select and Delete the shape objects as they have served their purpose.
A really cool tip is to actually save this locking stitch in a separate file, so that when you need to do this again you can just import the file!
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Book Question-Text |
| How do I change the attributes for a True Type Font? | In previous versions you did this by using Text=>TrueType Font Attribute Setting.
This is available in Version 9 but a little hard to find! When you have a true type font selected if you look at the Attributes ribbon, where the font selector is there will be a small box with an arrow in it at the bottom right corner.
Click this and you can select from a series of options. Be aware that not all options are available for every TTF.
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Book Questions-PHC format files |
| I saved a file from my embroidery machine to the USB stick. It is a PHC file. How can I open/modify it on my laptop. | This question is from Liz!
Hi Liz, these files are treated just like any other file format in L&E. Use Home=>Import Patterns=>from file to locate and import the file. Then you can modify or whatever, and then use File=>Save As to save this as a PES file!
Not all designs from your embroidery machines can be saved to a USB stick. (For example, the copyrighted designs, such as Disney etc.)
Hope that helps
Penny
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Angelina Tips and Hints |
| What is Angelina? | Angelina is this fabulous super soft yarn that adds an incredible amount of sparkle to almost anything! There are several different kinds of Angelina. The most common one is what is called Heat-bondable. When heated the fibers melt together forming a fabric. Way too cool! However, the fibers only melt to themselves so they still have to be attached to other fabrics in some way such as either using a Bo-Nash Bonding agent, Misty Fuse, fusible webbing, stitching to a stabilizer or layering under another fabric such as tulle or organza.
| | How do I create fabric sheets from Angelina? |  Take a ball of Angelina, pull a small amount off and place it on a sheet of parchment paper, organza, or a pressing cloth. Note how lightly this is layered on the photograph to the right. It takes a very small amount to create a sheet.
Place another layer of parchment paper or cloth over the Angelina and iron very lightly on a low heating temperature. I use the silk setting and keep the iron constantly moving.
After a few moments, check to see if the Angelina has melted together. You can always iron it a little more if necessary. The color will change depending on how much heat you apply, and you can, in fact, scorch the Angelina if you are not careful.
| | How do I create color blended Angelina fabric sheets? |  Use the same method described above, only instead of using one color, add pieces from several different shades of Angelina. It is a little hard to predict what the colors are going to look like after they are blended so I recommend you make some samples first. Write down what colors you used and how much. If possible, take photos during the processes!
Recreating a blend can be done successfully with a little care. That is how I made this jacket. To make larger sheets I create as big a piece of Angelina fabric as I can, then add more to it!
| | How do I attach an Angelina sheet to my fabric? | I have used the Bo-Nash bonding agent to attach both the bondable and non-bondable Angelina. Other fusible light weight interfacings can be used as well such as Misty Fuse and Steam-A-Seam2 Lite. I’ve also stitched the Angelina directly to another fabric or used it as an appliqué attached with an embroidery design.
| | What else can I do with Angelina sheets? | The sheets can be used in a variety of ways. I have used Angelina to create complete outfits, as a trim for scarves and jackets and incorporated into both appliqués and reverse appliqués. The possibilities are endless. Angelina can be ironed on a paper to create textured stencils or stamps. The resulting sheets can be used in scrapbooking or paper punched designs.
When using with a paper punch, place Angelina sheet between two pieces of paper before punching to get a clean cut and avoid jamming the tool.
Angelina sheets can also be molded into bowls or any other shape you can come up with!
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Fabric Tricks and Ideas |
| What is Silk Dupioni? |  Silk dupioni is created with the threads from two different silk worms. When two worms spin their cocoons close together, the fibers get tangled up, and these naturally tangled fibers are then used together to make the silk thread. The thread is rougher than regular silk and takes dye well and is usually easy to sew.
My Silk Dupioni is 44 inches wide unless otherwise stated. Silk Dupioin has natural slubs or imperfections in the fabric where the cacoons overlapped and create a natural part of the silk finish. The sheen of silk dupioni is excellent. However, the color can vary subtly from one side to the other and even in the different directions.
Silk Dupioni will fade if exposed to light over a long period of time. This is true no matter whose silk dupioni you buy. Even the UV light given off by lightbulbs can effect color. So if you store your Silk Dupioni garments in a closet where you keep the light on a lot, you may want to use shoulder covers protect the clothing from faded shoulder marks.
| | How do you cut garment pieces out of Silk Dupioni? |  I recommend cutting all garment pieces in one direction from the Silk Dupioni as if it had a nap. The color will be different from one side of the fabric to the other as well as in different directions. It’s important to keep track of which side is the right and which is the wrong side. I use a colored sticky dot on the side that won’t be showing. You can choose either side as your “right side” just make sure you’re consistent.
For a more slimming effect in my clothing, I often cut across the grain so that jackets, pants and sheath dresses can take advantage of the vertical striping of the stubs. If you choose to cut across the grain, make sure all pieces are cut the same way before you start sewing.
The main problem I have working with Silk Dupioni is that it frays like the dickens! Just looking at it seems to encourage threads to fray off! For that reason, I like to interface my silk before I even cut out my pieces. Interfacing does three things, it stabilizes the fabric, makes it wear better, and prevents fraying. I typically use a very light iron-on interfacing that does not significantly change the hand of the silk. My current favorites are Peggy Sager's Tricot Interfacing (www.silhouettepatterns.com), and Floriani's Dream Weaver (www.rnkdistributing.com).
| | Can I wash Silk Dupioni? | Yes, I do it all the time. First, serge the edges so that they do not unravel in the washer, then us a cold water wash and cold water rinse. I use either Ivory Snow or baby shampoo, but do not use Woolite. I often add a Dye Magnet to check to see if the fabric bleeds or not. For the most part, I have seen very little bleeding, even with the bright colors.
When the silk comes out of the washer it may feel stiff, and you might think you have ruined it. However, once it dries the fabric will be soft again. Some folks think the sheen is different after washing, but I find very little difference.
If I’m going to interface the silk, then I pre wash my interfacing also. To do this, I fill the sink with hot water and place the interfacing in it. After about 10 minutes, I place the interfacing over a shower rod to dry. Do not dry in the dryer! After it’s dry, I attach the interfacing using an iron press. It can be attached with an iron, but it is easier with the press.
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Computerized Embroidery Sets |
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